Listings for Cleveland) Driver

Cleveland CG Black Driver 10.5° Regular Mitsubishi Rayon Bassara E45 x5ct RH
Cleveland CG Black Driver 10.5° Regular Mitsubishi Rayon Bassara E45 x5ct RH
   $97.49
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Cleveland Classic XL Custom Golf Driver- Choose Loft and Flex- Right Hand
Cleveland Classic XL Custom Golf Driver- Choose Loft and Flex- Right Hand
   $79.99
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Cleveland Classic 290 Driver Golf Club
Cleveland Classic 290 Driver Golf Club
   $35.00
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Cleveland 588 Custom Driver 460cc Pick Your Loft & Flex NEW
Cleveland 588 Custom Driver 460cc Pick Your Loft & Flex NEW
   $109.99
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NEW CLEVELAND LADIES XL 270 10.5* DRIVER FL 15* 3 & 19* 5 WOODS + CALLAWAY BALLS
NEW CLEVELAND LADIES XL 270 10.5* DRIVER FL 15* 3 & 19* 5 WOODS + CALLAWAY BALLS
   $36.00
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Cleveland Classic XL Custom Golf Driver- Choose Loft and Flex- Right Hand
Cleveland Classic XL Custom Golf Driver- Choose Loft and Flex- Right Hand
   $79.99
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CLEVELAND CLASSIC XL 9* MENS RH DRIVER MIYAZAKI B.ASHA 4 GRAPHITE STIFF LIKENEW
CLEVELAND CLASSIC XL 9* MENS RH DRIVER MIYAZAKI B.ASHA 4 GRAPHITE STIFF LIKENEW
   $38.00
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Cleveland 588 Custom Driver 460cc Pick Your Loft & Flex NEW
Cleveland 588 Custom Driver 460cc Pick Your Loft & Flex NEW
   $109.99
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CLEVELAND CLASSIC XL CUSTOM RH 9* DRIVER MATRIX HD 6M3 BLACK TIE GRAPHITE STIFF
CLEVELAND CLASSIC XL CUSTOM RH 9* DRIVER MATRIX HD 6M3 BLACK TIE GRAPHITE STIFF
   $51.00
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Cleveland Classic XL Custom Golf Driver- Choose Loft and Flex- Right Hand
Cleveland Classic XL Custom Golf Driver- Choose Loft and Flex- Right Hand
   $79.99
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CLEVELAND CLASSIC 270 9* MENS RIGHT-HAND DRIVER MIYAZAKI C.KUA 39 GRAPHITE STIFF
CLEVELAND CLASSIC 270 9* MENS RIGHT-HAND DRIVER MIYAZAKI C.KUA 39 GRAPHITE STIFF
   $20.49
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Cleveland 588 Custom Driver 460cc Pick Your Loft & Flex NEW
Cleveland 588 Custom Driver 460cc Pick Your Loft & Flex NEW
   $109.99
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CLEVELAND HI-BORE LEFT-HANDED MENS 10.5* DRIVER FUJIKURA GRAPHITE STIFF LH
CLEVELAND HI-BORE LEFT-HANDED MENS 10.5* DRIVER FUJIKURA GRAPHITE STIFF LH
   $0.99
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CLEVELAND GOLF 588 ALTITUDE 10.5* DRIVER GRAPHITE MATRIX RADIX REGULAR FLEX
CLEVELAND GOLF 588 ALTITUDE 10.5* DRIVER GRAPHITE MATRIX RADIX REGULAR FLEX
   $79.95
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Cleveland Classic Xl Custom 10.5* Driver Regular New 45.5" Miyazaki JDL 5
Cleveland Classic Xl Custom 10.5* Driver Regular New 45.5" Miyazaki JDL 5
   $99.99
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Related Cleveland) Driver information

does brand matter?

jskd82 said: I am coming back to golf after not playing for about 9 years.....that's when I was in high school..... I am starting over with a new set of clubs and they are Knight Electra's, just some cheap wal mart clubs. Would a name brand club be way easier to play with than these cheap wal mart clubs? as in easier to hit the ball straighter and farther? eventually when I get better I would like to have a hybrid/iron set.... but that's when I can get to like around a 12 HCP.

Th*WOAT said: It probably wont matter much. I shoot in the high 90s, but I like trying out new stuff, keeps the game interesting for me. The real improvement comes from playing rounds, not equipment.

s*dewinder said: "It's the Indian, not the arrow...." But you still need good arrows! S-

M*nchesterGolfer said: The difference is in build quality. The big companies use quality material to cast or forge the heads of the irons & top line componants for the shafts and grips (true temper, golf pride). Not to mention Titanium for your driver. Cheap Walmart clubs will be ok for a while but it's dead money as they will be next to worthless when you try to upgrade. If your going to start playing regular again I'd try to pick up some branded clubs off ebay, some bargains to be had there. You will probably to get set up with some good irons, driver, 5 wood putter & bag for around $250, if Ez is around later I'm sure he'll have a look for you. Try the link to Global golf as well see what they have.

d*mon said: I think clubs are clubs to a certain extent, if you are just hacking around and having fun playing maybe a few times a year then it wont matter what you play. But...Since you are on shottalk I would then think you are serious about golf since you have gone out of your way to discuss the game, I would think that yes it would matter buying name brand over cheapies. Sure name brand is over priced, but they do use better materials and they actually have an RandD department and they are just not copying someone elses clubs. You can still play with cheapies and probably even get down to a single digit handicap with them, but instead of changing your swing to accomidate your club errors it should be the other way around. Damn, I wish the major manufacturers sold components. What a waste of money to go out and spend almost 1,000.00 on irons just to have them tweaked for another 300.00 +.

jskd82 said: Thanks for the replies nd yes I am getting serious about golf again and I plan to play at least 4 times a month.....last saturday was the most fun I ever had playing golf. I ended up playing 27 holes and also going to the range and practicing chipping.....started at 9 AM and ended at 6:30 PM.....I have a TM R580xd 9.5* driver and a odyssey 2 ball white hot putter and the rest of my clubs are wal mart clubs.......what are some good forgiving clubs? I was looking at the Mizuno MP 60 clubs. I think I'm gonna go with 5-SW for irons and have a couple hybrids to cover the 3 and 4 irons.....what do you think?

s*ndwedge said: The particular brand doesn't matter as much as quality. There are so many quality brands out there. You will definitely notice a difference between the walmart clubs and something of a little more quality. Good idea about the hybrids replacing a 3 and 4 iron. They are much easier to hit. What price range are you looking to spend for clubs? You will get lots of suggestions depending on what you want to spend.

d*mon said: Quote: Originally Posted by jskd82 I was looking at the Mizuno MP 60 clubs. I think I'm gonna go with 5-SW for irons and have a couple hybrids to cover the 3 and 4 irons.....what do you think? MP 60's might not be the best choice for you yet, but you can always grow into them. They are going to give you additional spin. Answer these questions and Ill give you some suggestions on which clubs to choose. 1. Do you work the ball (fade or draw)? 2. Does distance matter to you? 3. What do you want your clubs to look like (ie. thin top line, no chrome, etc...)? 4. Do you want to hit high soft shots or a penetrating ball flight? One thing to consider is your location when chooseing this option. I know here in Texas in peak summer when it dries out I will be able to hit my 2 iron 300 yards with roll on flat or downhill holes.

J.J. said: search for from TM 300 or 320 irons.. ezra has a set of 300's for sale for a nice price.. i have a set of 320's.. they are extremely nice irons and very easy to hit.. they have a thin top line and also a fairly thin bottom.. dont know if the finish matters to you but they are almost a grey aluminum.. i wasnt fond of that so last night, after 2 years of saying i was gonna do it, i polished them with some billet car rim polish and they are shiny as hell now.. i love it

jskd82 said: Thanks for the replies and i'll look into those Tm 300's....as for the other questions....1. Do you work the ball (fade or draw)? I am not this advanced yet lol usually my ball will start off straight and then in mid air it will start going to the right....and i don't mean to do that, I try to just hit it as straight as I can.2. Does distance matter to you? Distance does sorta matter but at this point I'd rather have accuracy over distance and then later as I get better I believe distance will come natural.3. What do you want your clubs to look like (ie. thin top line, no chrome, etc...)? I'm not really sure what thin top line and what else features there are......I know i'd like a cavity back style club instead of a blade style and finish for me doesn't really matter.4. Do you want to hit high soft shots or a penetrating ball flight? One thing to consider is your location when chooseing this option. I know here in Texas in peak summer when it dries out I will be able to hit my 2 iron 300 yards with roll on flat or downhill holes. I think i'd rather hit high soft shots with my irons and a penetrating flight with my drives..... I live in Hawaii so the weather is pretty much the same all year round. Thanks for your suggestions.

*racer said: It sounds to me that you are in the market for a set of game-improvement irons. Don't overlook the company that started the whole G.I. trend - Callaway. Their new Big Bertha irons are very nice, forgiving clubs. Not my cup of tea, since I like a more blade-like profile. But my Dad, who played blades his whole life, has a set and loves them. Try them out at a local retailer. I would also look at Cleveland TA-4, Taylor Made RAC-7, and one or two other sets that the salesman suggests. BTW - good call on the hybrids. Pssst...C-O-B-R-A Baffler

J.J. said: Quote: Originally Posted by jskd82 Thanks for the replies and i'll look into those Tm 300's.... heres the linkhttp://www.shottalk.com/forum/classi...00-forged.html

s*ndwedge said: If you are looking to get some game imrovement irons check out the TM Rac OS2's. I got mine a few months ago and I love them. I picked up about 10 yards distance on each club and they are very forgiving. The price has gone down a lot also.

d*mon said: Yep, I third the game improvement irons. Your best bet is to just demo the hell out of every brand till you find the clubs that you feel most comfortable with. Every major manufacturer has a set of game improvement irons.

jskd82 said: Could you please list which models are game improvement irons? and are these types of irons legal for tournament use? not that i'll be entering any tournies lol.....also by using these type of forgiving irons will my game still improve overtime where I will be able to hit less forgiving clubs better? Thanks

*zra76 said: Quote: Originally Posted by J.J. search for from TM 300 or 320 irons.. ezra has a set of 300's for sale for a nice price.. i have a set of 320's.. they are extremely nice irons and very easy to hit.. they have a thin top line and also a fairly thin bottom.. dont know if the finish matters to you but they are almost a grey aluminum.. i wasnt fond of that so last night, after 2 years of saying i was gonna do it, i polished them with some billet car rim polish and they are shiny as hell now.. i love it I appreciate the suggestion but the one's (300's)I have are most definitely not game improvement. The shafts are pretty stout as well. I couldn't turn them over like I do the Nippons, they fade very controlled though. Basically a little too much shaft for me... and I'm pulling a 5iron from the 200 button every time.

J.J. said: Quote: Originally Posted by ezra76 I appreciate the suggestion but the one's (300's)I have are most definitely not game improvement. The shafts are pretty stout as well. I couldn't turn them over like I do the Nippons, they fade very controlled though. Basically a little too much shaft for me... and I'm pulling a 5iron from the 200 button every time. really? is there that much difference in the 300's and the 320's? my 320's improved my game a TON..

VtD*vot said: Get some Callaway X20 or go to Callaway Golf Preowned & Outlet : Used Golf Clubs, Pre-Owned Drivers, Fairway Woods, Irons, Wedges, Iron Sets, Putters and get a good set of irons cheap.

*zra76 said: Quote: Originally Posted by J.J. really? is there that much difference in the 300's and the 320's? my 320's improved my game a TON.. My boss has the 320's. They are a little wider and definitely more offset, as well as cast, not that forged makes them any less forgiving. Shafts are stout also, like I said. Definitely feel stiffer than an S300 to me.

J.J. said: Quote: Originally Posted by ezra76 My boss has the 320's. They are a little wider and definitely more offset, as well as cast, not that forged makes them any less forgiving. Shafts are stout also, like I said. Definitely feel stiffer than an S300 to me. you know, i always thought mine said forged inside the cavity.. went to check just now and it says feel cartridge.. i always just saw the F and never read on :laugh: mine do have the heavier rifle shafts.. i love my irons.. there may be easier ones out there to hit though..

P* Jayhawk said: To me, brand really matters, but this requires more of an explanation. It is more of a confidence issue too me. When I started out, brand really meant nothing to me. Saving money was more important. So knowing I got clubs that suited me very well at a cheap cost was good. Now I am more inclined to feel confident in my clubs knowing I got exactly what I wanted really regardless of cost (but nothing to exorbitant). Clubs that many people have played and complimented in the past. Where as I have friends that went with a decent Wishon component and likely have just as good a club for about 2/3's the price. Although it did not have the exact look, design, topline, offset and such that made me confident standing over the club. Likely no difference in performance for anyone but me. Although there are clubs out there that may not meet the same standards as a branded or component. I think getting fitted from a competent and credible fitter is more important than brand, where a competent and reliable fitter will likely not let you go astray on quality. Where buying off the rack and not getting fitted is likely a much bigger mistake in that either way you will likely end up with clubs that are not right for you, regardless of the name. So if being confident that you have the right club for your game is not the most important function, then why not save a few bucks and stick with what you have until you reach the point that you know exactly what you need. At least you will be confident in saving a few bucks. Golf is a very mental game that even extends past the course on determinants in how well you will play.