Related Mizuno Iron set information

My next projext-reshafting help

d*ve. said: Its my first go. I am going to finally teach myself to reshaft using the Hogans I bought for £10. I will buy some second hand shafts, .355, and give it a go. I have found these for help;Golfsmith.com: Golf store I have never done it before so I would appreciate some tips. For example, in one of the Golf Smith tutorials it looks hard to put on new ferrules, i don't understand what they are saying, can anyone offer advice on this any anything esle they think is relevant.What epoxy is best?

d*ve. said: 'projext'? FOOL

d*ve. said: http://www.shottalk.com/forum/attach...icture-317.jpg

b*mes said: I'm not a pro but have reshafted about 4 sets of irons. The last set I did I decided to expedite the ferrul removal process by puting a little heat to them with my heat gun - not alot - but just enough to make them glisten and they pulled right off with no mess or residue. Obviously I pulled them off after having removed the heads - consequently the ferruls were already warm at this point so it seemed to work very well. The only other thing I know is to avoid being in any rush whatsoever. You just as well plan on reading the book "The Match" while you heat these up and things will seem to go much more smoothly. Also, have a damp rag handy. Just nice to have around. The only ferrul installation tool I've used was my thumb and index finger.

d*ve. said: cheers I've bought new ferrules so I can wreck the old ones

b*mes said: Quote: Originally Posted by dave. cheers I've bought new ferrules so I can wreck the old ones I would never waste time trying to save ferrules but again, some guys I'm sure are much better at this than I. It's so easy Dave, that it is almost rediculous.

R*ckinMA said: i heated up the old ferrules too - once they're softened up a bit, i cut most of it off with a utility knife - I didn't want to just melt them because they're messy and smelly next - a vice certainly comes in handy - apply some heat to the hosel til the epoxy bond breaks down - i then twisted the heads off using a fire glove and cleaned out the hosels right away with a gun cleaning brush and later with a little sandpaper and then acetone to put the new shaft in, you just need to get the ferrule started, then seat it by pushing it into the clubhead. ferrules are a pain. you want them tight so they don't slide, but they're difficult to just push on. i sanded down the inside a bit and hit them with an acetone soaked q-tip, then tossed them into some hot water. I let them sit for a little while, then fished them out and stuck them on. just make sure you buy a bunch of extra ferrules - if it gets stuck or whatever, cut it off and do it again. some use a little epoxy to lube the ferrule up and slide it on - i've tried it and wound up a sticky mess once your ferrules are on, you're ready to epoxy the shafts in (I spined mine before putting the ferrules on and had the NBP marked on some masking tape so I could line it up with the target line when the time came) the epoxy part is easy - just make sure you mix it well and that you've prepped the shaft and hosel (I used sandpaper on the steel shaft and cleaned it with acetone) I used golfworks epoxy - the 24 hr cure stuff, but next time i'll probably try the golfsmith 30/60 or whatever it's called - it seems to have the best reviews put epoxy in the head and on the tip of the shaft - insert the shaft, then pull it out and make sure it's even, if not, apply more epoxy. sprinkle on some glass shafting beads and reinsert. wipe off the extra epoxy with a baby wipe and then you just let it set next you cut to length and get some grips on there one thing to keep in mind - if you're building to TLT spec and the shafts are going to be shorter than "standard length" you'll find that you need to add weight to the heads to get the swingweight up to a normal range - I needed to add between 6-10 grams to each head. this will soften up the shaft flex, so hardstepping them might be a good idea. For example, since I needed to add 7 grams to my 8 iron, the head now weighs the same as a 9iron head, so I tipped the shaft like it was a 9 iron. Since you're using taper tip shafts, you'd likely need to buy one extra wedge shaft to do this. I'd recommend using a swingweight calculator before you start gluing things together to get a sense for how much weight you'll need to add - I used this onehttp://www.myostrichgolf.com/resources/swing.xls when you order supplies, I'd pick up: >shafts (including the extra wedge shaft) >ferrules >tip weights or tungsten/lead powder and corks (and a ram rod if you're using corks) >grips (and tape/solvent if you don't have a compressor) >epoxy >glass shafting beads >acetone >baby wipes take your time, and good luck

d*ve. said: Thanks for posting all that, appreciate it I didn't bother re-weighting, remember, only the 4, 5 and 6 are shorter, and they felt fine and tbh I don't mind using lead tape but my current set are just as is, no tipping or no extra weight

R*ckinMA said: Quote: Originally Posted by dave. I didn't bother re-weighting, remember, only the 4, 5 and 6 are shorter, and they felt fine and tbh I don't mind using lead tape but my current set are just as is, no tipping or no extra weight your current set might already have weights in the tip and if it's not that much of a difference, you probably can't feel it When you pull the old shaft, you'll pull any old tip weight and you may find yourself with some very light irons - a few minutes with the swingweight calculator just to be safe is time well spent (says the guy who wasted a shaft by not thinking all the way through the process in my rush to get to the range) which TLT series are you building to?

d*ve. said: blagged the shafts building to series 5RARE Dynamic Gold Tour Shafts (TOUR ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) on eBay, also Club Shafts, Golf Club Components, Golf, Sporting Goods (end time 09-Apr-08 22:04:14 BST)

R*ckinMA said: I built to series 6 and needed to add a good amount of weight to each head to get to normal swingweights/MOI series 5 is a little shorter - I'll be really shocked if you don't need some extra weight another thing to do before you regrip is to add some prosoft inserts or backer rod or caulk saving foam or whatever it's called - makes cheap steel shafts feel nice

d*ve. said: thanks a lot will use that spreadsheet, cheers

M*nchesterGolfer said: It's really easy peeze!!! Steam ferrule till it comes loose (over kettle), slide ferrule out of the way, Heat club until epoxy bubbles & finally remove head. EVEN A FOOL COULD MANAGE IT ! ! !

Lyl*G said: Dave, I dont have time tonight put tomorrow I will type you up a full tutorial.

f*otballking732 said: Quote: Originally Posted by LyleG Dave, I dont have time tonight put tomorrow I will type you up a full tutorial. lyle, i would like to see this as well. I am really trying to stop my reliance on club builders, as im paying out of the nose to reshaft. Also, what would you recommend for the cheapest(but viable) shaft puller?

w*rehair said: Some of the old Hogans have a pin through the hosel & shaft that hold the head on. That creates a whole new ballgame when pulling those shafts.

M*nchesterGolfer said: Quote: Originally Posted by wirehair Some of the old Hogans have a pin through the hosel & shaft that hold the head on. That creates a whole new ballgame when pulling those shafts. I've just dropped the Hogans off for Dave and they do have the pins, Good luck dave!!!

d*ve. said: Right, how do I shift those pins? Rickman, are these the tip weights you refer to? And if so, what weight do I need for one swing weight point and should I buy a selection?Golf Grips Direct

d*ve. said: Quote: Originally Posted by LyleG Dave, I dont have time tonight put tomorrow I will type you up a full tutorial. cheers I also need to know how to remove shaft pins

w*rbirdlover said: I would think the pins are "tapered"(?) and you have to knock them out from the small end with a punch(?). :D

d*ve. said: I am hoping these older Hogans are the same shafts as my own, ie .355 taper, how do i reshaft?

R*ckinMA said: if you know how much weight you'll need I think those tip weights will work I used this stuff thoughGolfsmith.com: Golfsmith Tungsten Powder 1/2 Pound - Golfsmith and Golfsmith.com: Golfsmith Iron Corks-Pkg/25 - Golfsmith I'd wait for lyle's how to before buying anything else

w*rehair said: Quote: Originally Posted by warbirdlover I would think the pins are "tapered"(?) and you have to knock them out from the small end with a punch(?). :D Hogan didn't have faith in epoxy so he insisted on the pins. I don't know if they're tapered, but heat them first then knock 'em out. If they won't knock out, you'll have to drill. In either case, there's going t be a couple of holes in the hosels of your irons, you can fill the holes with epoxy putty.

d*ve. said: Ok, supplies on order, still 'learning' before I start. Rick, thanks for Tims spreadsheet link, one question. I am starting to fill in the specs, but I cannot get my head around why the table has in it the raw length, and these figs efefct the swingweight. Surely the raw length is irrelevant, only the actual club length matters? Why have a table that has 2 columns, actual length, and raw length, both of which chnage the sw vaue in the table? Or does the table mean tipped length when it refers to raw lenght?

d*ve. said: As you can see, there is a 'raw length' column, which changes the SW calculations, as does the 'club length' column, I can't understand that part of ithttp://farm4.static.flickr.com/3239/...d160281200.jpg

R*ckinMA said: I think the raw length weight input factors into it's calculation of balance point - a 130g DG shaft will likely swingweight different than a 75g graphite shaft

d*ve. said: Thanks....

d*ve. said: Of course, I get it now, the raw length is needed to calculate in the balance point. The ones I have are 1/2" longer as standard because I can't be bothered to sue extensions in the shirt irons, they will make it easier to TLT

d*ve. said: Shafts are here, X100 Tour, a butt and tip stiff version of X100s, lethal!

S*berianDVM said: Quote: Originally Posted by dave. Shafts are here, X100 Tour, a butt and tip stiff version of X100s, lethal! Are you sure you didn't mean to order some L flex graphite? In pink?

d*ve. said: I have bought these to scare little children

S*berianDVM said: Quote: Originally Posted by dave. I have bought these to scare little children I think X100 Tours might have scared Hogan.

d*ve. said: Nah, they would have been faggy for him.

d*ve. said: LOl, just reading Chuck Quintins review of these, they compare to a Rifle PX of...........................9. Pretty much XXX stiff. Lyle is shitting his pants as we speak.

S*berianDVM said: Quote: Originally Posted by dave. LOl, just reading Chuck Quintins review of these, they compare to a Rifle PX of...........................9. Pretty much XXX stiff. Lyle is shitting his pants as we speak. I heard = to 8+, but close enough. Also heard that this is what the new Masters champion uses in his irons.

d*ve. said: Well he is a weedy pipsqueak, so I should be fine

S*berianDVM said: Quote: Originally Posted by dave. Well he is a weedy pipsqueak, so I should be fine He looked like he has been working out. His forearms are almost to Paul Casey's level. I was seriously impressed by Immelman's swing this past weekend.

M*nchesterGolfer said: Quote: Originally Posted by dave. I have bought these to scare little children You've been warned by the Police for doing this in the past - Learn your lesson!!!! so they weren't Black Golds then? I get X100's so you have to try to out do me!!!

d*ve. said: Nope, turned out to be these X100 Tours that Tiger uses, XXX stiff, or a 9 in Rifle terms.

d*ve. said: So I thought i was getting Black Golds due to a dodgy ad, but I doubt I can hit an XXX. I do however need to dump the Apex 4s, they are to light and to soft, I am just hitting the ball far to high