Listings for PRGR Iron

Excellent PRGR iD BL Forged 2011model 6pc S-Flex IRONS SET Golf Clubs egg inv
Excellent PRGR iD BL Forged 2011model 6pc S-Flex IRONS SET Golf Clubs egg inv
   $689.99
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USED PRGR GOLF JAPAN TR900 Tour FORGED 8pc Iron set
USED PRGR GOLF JAPAN TR900 Tour FORGED 8pc Iron set
   $290.00
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USED PRGR GOLF JAPAN FORGED 900TR 10pc M40 Iron set
USED PRGR GOLF JAPAN FORGED 900TR 10pc M40 Iron set
   $350.00
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Used Golf Clubs PRGR TR-X 910 Original carbon 7pc Iron set  Japan Mens
Used Golf Clubs PRGR TR-X 910 Original carbon 7pc Iron set Japan Mens
   $159.00
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Rare PRGR TR 900 Forged Irons 3-PW (No 5 Iron) X Stiff Steel
Rare PRGR TR 900 Forged Irons 3-PW (No 5 Iron) X Stiff Steel
   $89.99
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 USED PRGR GOLF JAPAN FORGED 900TR 9pc S400 Iron set
USED PRGR GOLF JAPAN FORGED 900TR 9pc S400 Iron set
   $290.00
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PRGR TR SPEED 900 IRONS Forged 7pc M46 Stiff-Flex IRONS SET made in Japan
PRGR TR SPEED 900 IRONS Forged 7pc M46 Stiff-Flex IRONS SET made in Japan
   $275.00
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PRGR TYPE 040I 1 IRON HYBRID W/ORIGINAL SIFF FLEX SHAFT AND HEADCOVER
PRGR TYPE 040I 1 IRON HYBRID W/ORIGINAL SIFF FLEX SHAFT AND HEADCOVER
   $49.99
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[ USED ] PRGR GOLF JAPAN EGG 2013  IRON SET 9-CLUBS M-35 ORIGINAL CARBON  1683
[ USED ] PRGR GOLF JAPAN EGG 2013 IRON SET 9-CLUBS M-35 ORIGINAL CARBON 1683
   $2,238.00
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PRGR DATA 711 Iron set #3-SW 10pc Original Carbon Flex-M-40 from Japan
PRGR DATA 711 Iron set #3-SW 10pc Original Carbon Flex-M-40 from Japan
   $229.98
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PRGR CT-545 Single 4 Iron Golf Club Graph M-34/76 MPH
PRGR CT-545 Single 4 Iron Golf Club Graph M-34/76 MPH
   $8.99
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PRGR CT-545 Single 6 Iron Golf Club Graph M-34/76 MPH
PRGR CT-545 Single 6 Iron Golf Club Graph M-34/76 MPH
   $8.99
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PRGR hybrid / utility 5 iron CT-545 golf club, M-34 76 MPH shaft
PRGR hybrid / utility 5 iron CT-545 golf club, M-34 76 MPH shaft
   $79.99
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egg Iron 4I 21 PRGR
egg Iron 4I 21 PRGR
   $103.40
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PRGR CT-545 3 iron hybrid golf club, made in Japan, R flex
PRGR CT-545 3 iron hybrid golf club, made in Japan, R flex
   $119.99
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Related PRGR Iron information

Shortened Driver?

M*nchesterGolfer said: Does anybody play a shortened driver? I know Dave has had his cut down to 44" has anybody else done the same and what have you found? How did it affect distance, accurancy & swingweight? I rediscovered last night at the range that i was hanging off the end of the club. If I go down a little and leave a 2 finger gap at the butt of the club i strike it much better. Problem is as i keep striking it better I creap back up the club until I'm hagging off the top again. I did the same thing over Summer and ended up putting some tape at the top of the grip to stop me doing it but I think i'm gonna make it a permanant feature by chopping it down.

Th*23rdman said: I did this to my old titleist 975D and ruined it. If you're going to do it it's well worth getting a clubfitter to do a proper job, mate, as it will affect the swing weight. My 975D felt like a wand after my hack job. Saying that I think it's well worth shortening your driver. It wasn't long ago we all played them at 44", after all.

K*ng Par said: I play an r5 tp at 44.75 inches, although i am 6'6''. i know its only a quarter of an inch, but i've gained, accuracy, control, while sacrificing distance. it wasn't much, 10-15 yards, but i'd be willing to give up more to be in the fairway more often. in a month or so i'll be able to go to the golf dome and golf shop on my own so i'll be able to experiment more. but i bought the club at the end of the season, and my last 5 rounds were the best, driving wise, than they were all summer.

M*KE1218 said: I play my driver at 44 inches. I had it re-swingweighted to D5 when the shaft was cut down, so you might want to look into that if you get yours cut. As far as distance and accuracy, I would say my averages are up quite a bit due to striking the center of the face, though my best hits with the longer shaft were 10 yards longer.

w*rbirdlover said: I'm 6'0" but have short arms (and a fairly flat swing plane) and find longer drivers work better for me for control. Weird. :)

S*berianDVM said: I had Dana Upshaw make me a 43.5" Maltby CT250FC and it is SOOOO much easier to hit straight. It seems a wee bit shorter off the tee than my 45" Titleist, though it may be my imagination. In addition, there is minimal difference in being 280 yards out vs. 270 yards out: I still can't get there in 1. The difference in being in the short grass vs. the bermuda rough could be substantial. The Titleist just looks and sounds better than the Maltby, darn it.

sw*rtzd said: I have the Nike Sumo SQ Lucky 13 driver which comes with 44 in. shaft. It really does increase confidence and control. I'm sure the 13 deg. helps too. It's amazing that you lose almost no distance either. Great stick!

*ndacup said: One of the first things I remember Tom Wishon saying about driver length was "When fitting the majority of customers, be as stingy as possible giving away length over 44"". At first the reasoning was by keeping it shorter, the consistancy and repeatability of consistent ball striking, at or closer to the sweet spot is increased. You therefore gain more accuracy and distance. Then, this past year we found by doing the same and adding weight strategically to the head increased the MOI for added distance on off center hits. There's pros and cons for each...I have a short driver (44-1/4) and a long one (47")...when my tempo goes awry, I use the longer driver...it forces me to slow down.

P* Jayhawk said: I took an inch off mine in the middle of the last golf season. Hit the ball much more consistent and hit the ball longer on the average. Granted I don't get the occasional "really long balls" like the other when I did manage to find the screws but I probably "averaged" about 15-20 yards longer as I now manage to find the screws alot more often. The new fairway woods I should receive tomorrow will be between 1/2" and 1 1/2" shorter than, my current ones. Interested to see how that effects my consistency.

D*le said: I'm gonna go out on a limb here and be totally different! My R7 Superquad developed a rattle about a week after I bought it, I took it back to the shop and left it with them to send off whilst I went on my honeymoon. Came back and they had replaced it with a new one, only this one had a totally different shaft than before. Previously I had a standard length Grafalloy Blue, came back to find a VS Proto that was 2" LONGER than standard! I took one look at it, a couple of practice swings and started to get cross! I absolutely loved the Grafalloy shafted club before and was gutted that they had done this. I started to blow my top, and they suggested I just try it out first before giving it straight back, and as awkward as it felt at first I now absolutely crush the thing. I had it in my head that longer shaft would make me more inconsistent and generally all over the place, but I actually hit it longer, more consistent and with a much sweeter looking draw - I'd say 8-10 are good strikes with the driver now. The other thing is I'm fairly short (5'9") - Now I don't know much about the mechanics of the golf swing, or technology, but I was sure I'd muff almost every shot with this longer shaft, once again I got proved wrong! Now I'm totally used to it, and hitting my friends 'standard' drivers feels weird!

S*lverUberXeno said: If you guys are all basing this on Dave I think you're FOOLS! The best feeling driver I ever had was a 46" Launcher 460 with an Aldila NV. Some more physics... Consider your normal swing speed with a standard length (45") driver as X. - A shorter shaft will require more power to produce the same clubhead speed relative to the standard. It will require more effort to reach X, aka a faster swing. (this is why some tour pros with swing speeds up to 115 still only carry 270; shorter drivers.) - A longer shaft with the same tempo swing as the X-swing will produce MORE clubhead speed. I recall reading that Hogan had all of his clubs lengthened, as a matter of fact. Longer clubs + a smooth swing can produce significant clubhead speed. Note Hogan's graceful swing. The variable is center-face contact of course. But to me it really seems more profitable to stick with a longer shaft and swing more smoothly. Less length requires more speed to reach X. More length requires less speed to reach X. Less length plus standard swing equals X.

R*ckinMA said: you've gotta play the percentages - most people will do better with a shorter more manageable club. Smooth controlled swingers with a flatter swing plane, may do just fine with a longer club. Guys with more upright swing planes and aggressive swings usually do better with a shorter club. Dale, in your case, the bend profile and or swingweight/MOI of the newly shafted club might just fit your swing better than the old club. if you don't have a flatter than average swing plane and super athletic ability, you might make good contact 9/10 times with that driver built to the same MOI and flex with the VS Proto at a shorter length (figured I'd throw that in, in case you needed justification to ho another driver)

R*ckinMA said: Quote: Originally Posted by SilverUberXeno The variable is center-face contact of course. But to me it really seems more profitable to stick with a longer shaft and swing more smoothly. This is a very big variable. I don't have the results in front of me, but I think robot testing has shown like a difference of only a couple yards by adding an inch of length. In real life, an extra inch can be a disaster for center-face contact for most golfers. It's more important to make good contact that it is to pick up 1-2 mph of swingspeed. The distance loss is immaterial and the accuracy gains are more than worth it.... in my opinion anyway

MCD*vis said: I was playing a stock G5 and a stock Adams 460D, both at 45 3/4". Bought a J33r that's stock 45" and noticed an immediate difference...my mishits were not as bad (read STILL IN THE FAIRWAY) and my good hits were as long as I was used to with a less forgiving driver. Reshafted the G5 @ 45"...expecting it to be more controllable.

M*nchesterGolfer said: Think I'm gonna give it a try. I'm going to have half inch cut off & if I don't like it i have a shaft extender for graphite lying around here somewhere :) If I do like it my 3 & 5 wood may also be in for the chop. Thinking half inch because thats roughly how far down the shaft I go but it feels better holding at the top of the grip.

R*ckinMA said: MG, before you just have it chopped, talk to a good clubfitter - you'll likely need to add weight to the head to get it back to the same swingweight/MOI which can soften the flex of the shaft - if it's already a good fit, some tip trimming might be in order to keep it's overall flex consistent

M*nchesterGolfer said: Quote: Originally Posted by RickinMA MG, before you just have it chopped, talk to a good clubfitter - you'll likely need to add weight to the head to get it back to the same swingweight/MOI which can soften the flex of the shaft - if it's already a good fit, some tip trimming might be in order to keep it's overall flex consistent Would/does removing half inch of graphite cause that much of a problem? Can't weigh too much? As for club fitters we don't really have any over here. The 2 big chains (American golf & Direct golf) don't even fit a grip for you, unless you get lucky!

R*ckinMA said: Quote: Originally Posted by ManchesterGolfer Would/does removing half inch of graphite cause that much of a problem? Can't weigh too much? As for club fitters we don't really have any over here. The 2 big chains (American golf & Direct golf) don't even fit a grip for you, unless you get lucky! reducing length by 1/2" reduces the swingweight by 3 points. To get the swingweight back to where it was, you'd need to add 6 grams of weight to the head. Adding 6 grams to the head will soften the flex of the shaft approx 1/2 flex (I think) If the shaft felt a little stiff to you, this could be perfect. If it was just right, removing the shaft and trimming a bit off the tip could help. The tip is the most flexible part of the shaft, so if you trim the tip, the shaft gets stiffer - this, combined with the added weight, puts you right back where you started. There's no right or wrong for how stiff that shaft should be, unless you thought it was perfect for you as it was - in which case, you might want to keep it were it was from a flex perspective. The tricky part is knowing how much tip trimming is necessary for that particular shaft - in some cases, you can check the shaft maker's website and get trimming info. If you were adding so much weight to a driver, that it had a similar weight as a 3 wood, the shaft maker would probably give you trimming instructions for a 3 wood that you could follow - if you're adding less weight than that (which I think is the case here) I think you really need someone knowledgeable enough to tell you how much has to come off the tip (I'm not that guy - Indacup/Lyle and a handful of others are probably the way to go here) good luck

M*nchesterGolfer said: Quote: Originally Posted by RickinMA reducing length by 1/2" reduces the swingweight by 3 points. To get the swingweight back to where it was, you'd need to add 6 grams of weight to the head. Adding 6 grams to the head will soften the flex of the shaft approx 1/2 flex (I think) If the shaft felt a little stiff to you, this could be perfect. If it was just right, removing the shaft and trimming a bit off the tip could help. The tip is the most flexible part of the shaft, so if you trim the tip, the shaft gets stiffer - this, combined with the added weight, puts you right back where you started. There's no right or wrong for how stiff that shaft should be, unless you thought it was perfect for you as it was - in which case, you might want to keep it were it was from a flex perspective. The tricky part is knowing how much tip trimming is necessary for that particular shaft - in some cases, you can check the shaft maker's website and get trimming info. If you were adding so much weight to a driver, that it had a similar weight as a 3 wood, the shaft maker would probably give you trimming instructions for a 3 wood that you could follow - if you're adding less weight than that (which I think is the case here) I think you really need someone knowledgeable enough to tell you how much has to come off the tip (I'm not that guy - Indacup/Lyle and a handful of others are probably the way to go here) good luck thanks for the advice I will hold fire for now.

d*ve. said: Er, thats the theory, but the reality is I couldn't feel any difference in flex and the swingweight drop was so neglible I couldn't feel it. I went as high as 7 strips, thats 7 swingweight points before my transition chnaged and effected flight. The benefits of greater control from a shorter shaft far outweight any real or percieved changes in flex and swingweight, and the changes are so small a bit of lead tape can be appied to taste. Trust me, once you have sampled the control you get from a shaft that has been measured for you, you will not return to a long driver. I smacked a mates Burner TP today and it felt like a ping pong ball on the end of a rope. As I said earlier, I have some tape on, but its there to make me feel better. I know the swingweight has dropped and the shaft stiffened, marginally I know but it has, all the same, so the tape is there just as a comfort blanky.

R*ckinMA said: I agree Dave - I think shorter is better - MG, you can probably just chop it. And, if by some chance your on-center hit % drops or you don't like the feel, try adding some weight to the head to get the swingweight back up to where it was. If you do this, and the shaft is feeling too soft, extend the shaft and go back to how you had it. it seems trial and error or a good experienced fitter are both options

Cl*gnut said: If you want to increase center hits, spine the shaft. I'm a believer. This will do more than shortening the shaft.

b*mes said: I am generally too scientific about everything I do in golf. So I decided to try something different with my driver. I cut it to 44.25" and went to the range with a roll of lead tape in one hand and my driver in the other. I added, removed, and repositioned tape until my driver "felt right" and produced my most consistent shots. Months later I had it checked and it turns out that it playes between a D-2 and D-3 swingweight and a S- stiffness. Which, ironically, is exactly where I like my clubs to play. I now consider my driving the strongest point of my game. Not the longest, but most reliable. Also, my driving distance averages have risen - which I think can be attributed to gained confidence if nothing else. Point in case - there are many "immesurables" in golf and sometimes if it feels right - it is right.

d*ve. said: Quote: Originally Posted by Clugnut If you want to increase center hits, spine the shaft. I'm a believer. This will do more than shortening the shaft. I'm a believer, but your statement is hard to quantify, and in reality the vast majority if not 99% of golfers will be more accurate with a shorter driver

M*nchesterGolfer said: Trial & error it is then. I'm gonna go for half an inch. I was thinking about an inch but that might be a little drastic.

B*bble Head said: Let's do the math on swing speed. I am 6'2" tall. If I play a 45" driver, the radius of my swing is probably about 70". I have a 90 mph head speed with that club. If I cut the driver to 44", my radius is 69" which gives an 89 mph swing speed. Using a smash factor or 1.4 and looking at the distance dashboard at Sonic Boom Golf, this is about 3 yards.

R*ckinMA said: Quote: Originally Posted by Bubble Head Let's do the math on swing speed. I am 6'2" tall. If I play a 45" driver, the radius of my swing is probably about 70". I have a 90 mph head speed with that club. If I cut the driver to 44", my radius is 69" which gives an 89 mph swing speed. Using a smash factor or 1.4 and looking at the distance dashboard at Sonic Boom Golf, this is about 3 yards. It's always good to see numbers - 3 yards I can get my head around I couldn't figure out how to make that link work, but what's the net distance change between a smash factor of 1.4 at 90mph and a smash factor of 1.45 or 1.5 at 89mph - we're talking about shortening the shaft to make more consistent/efficient center-face contact - I think most people pick up yards or break even with a shorter shaft and hit the ball a bit straighter even without an increased smash-factor, I'd rather hit a 7 iron from 150 in the fairway than an 7 iron from the rough at 147.

B*bble Head said: I wish I could hit a 7 iron 150 from anywhere.

P* Jayhawk said: Quote: Originally Posted by Clugnut If you want to increase center hits, spine the shaft. I'm a believer. This will do more than shortening the shaft. Quote: Originally Posted by dave. I'm a believer, but your statement is hard to quantify, and in reality the vast majority if not 99% of golfers will be more accurate with a shorter driver Imagine the results you would have if you did both?? Probably a big reason I am tossing around the idea of getting a shaft puller and a spine tool this winter. Also to some of the comments made earlier about keeping a longer shaft to keep the distance. I am fond of the comments regarding that if Tiger cut his shaft down to 43.5" because he couldn't hit a 46" and maintain control, what makes you think you can. That was enough for me.

Lyl*G said: My driver is 43.5 inches long now and will stay this way for good. I am done experimenting. This length gives me the most consistency with distance equal to longer lengths.

f*gjam said: I've found that when I grip down the club an inch my driving improves out of sight. I hit it longer and straighter. Don't know why it goes longer but maybe the shorter shaft is easier to time and improves the smach factor. It definitely feels sweeter off the face when I grip down.