Listings for Ram Power Zone

Ram Power Zone 3 Iron MRH Steel (M5025)
Ram Power Zone 3 Iron MRH Steel (M5025)
   $19.20
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MRH SET Of 9 Ram Power Zone Golf Clubs Irons 3-9 + Sand & Pitching Wedge Stiff
MRH SET Of 9 Ram Power Zone Golf Clubs Irons 3-9 + Sand & Pitching Wedge Stiff
   $29.99
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Golf Club medallion power zone Ram 9
Golf Club medallion power zone Ram 9
   $5.00
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Golf Club medallion power zone Ram 7
Golf Club medallion power zone Ram 7
   $5.00
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Related Ram Power Zone information

Choosing iron shafts

DrBr*wn said: I currently have Maxfli A10 irons 2-SW. I love the look and feel of them even though they are horribly fitted. I had ordered these from Maxfli and asked for standard loft/lie with S300 shafts. Well I assumed everything was great even thought I lost 10-12 yards per club when I got them. Turns out they are 1.25* up and the shafts are tipped to 3X stiff. I think my swing attack angle has changed to suit the irons and its obvious when I make the same swing with my driver and it baloons when I know its fitted pretty close for my swing. So Im going to build my own irons so I know they are right this time! Im probably going to use snake eyes heads unless I find a good deal on clubs elsewhere. I do know some of my measurements but I need help determining what brand/flex shafts to use. My driver speed is 102mph and my ball flight is mid to high. Im 5'9" and my finger tips are 27" from the ground so Im pretty much average all around and would need standard loft lie Im guessing. That being said what kind of shaft should I look for? I used to have TM rifles and liked them but Im not thrilled with these S300's, probably because of how stiff they are! If anyone can give me some pointers it would be helpful. Thanks!

S*berianDVM said: You could just pull the shafts from your Maxfli heads and reshaft them properly. We need wrist to floor measurement to judge club length. 5 iron swing speed is needed for club flex, although with 102 mph driver, an estimate of STIFF, but not tipped, could be used.

R*ckinMA said: is your backswing to downswing transition move 1) smooth 2) average 3) aggressive? is your tempo 1) slow 2) average or 3) fast? how would you describe your overall strength? also, you mentioned 27" from the floor to your finger tips - how long from your finger tips to your wrist? there's a lot that can go into building your own - shaft length and flex, weight (static and swingweight/MOI), etc - it can be really overwhelming have you read Wishon's book "Search for the Perfect Golf Club?"

DrBr*wn said: To answer all your questions, its 34.5" from my wrist joint to the floor. (7.5" from wrist to middle finger tip) My swing is very smooth and fluid. I dont swing that hard, just smooth transitions from beginning to end so I dont torque the shaft a lot. For this reason I think the 3X stiff was really hurting me. I have not read any books or literature on building clubs yet. This would be my first attempt. And while I do realize there are a lot of things that can go into the process, Im a neutral swinger so I dont need a lot of fancy weighting on my club heads to hit it straight. Ive always been a 9 handicap, even with these clubs that are way off. Thank you short game! :D Is there really benefit in spending all the extra money for the weighting? Im assuming all the things RickinMA mentioned cost a lot and no store bought irons are going to have that so it makes me wonder whether its worth spending that much for fitting. Budget is why Im building my own in the first place. I could probably upload a video of me swinging later tonight if need be. But my tempo is a lot like an Else or Couples, just not as refined. Hope that helps. Thanks for the replies.

S*berianDVM said: IMHO, if you're going to build your own irons, you will need, as a minimum: a copy of the aforementioned Wishon book, read it before you start, decent swingweighting and gram scale, vise or Workmate type bench, a spine finding tool, power drill, small vertical belt sander, jigsaw or chop saw with very fine toothed blade, small air compressor is very helpful, small propane torch, heavy leather gloves, epoxy, grip tape, grip solvent, various tipweights, hosel cleaning brushes, possibly hosel reaming bit, selection of ferrules, rubber shaft vise protector, measuring tape, a clean place to work where smells and stains are not a problem For graphite metal woods, you will also need a decent head puller. A frequency counter and shaft butt clamp is a very nice to have tool as well.

w*rbirdlover said: I don't think he can use those shafts from the Maxfli's if they are that (tipped to 3X) stiff. :wow: I love the Nippon Pro950's in my S59's. They are stiff flex but actually play between regular and stiff (perfect for me). I had R300's in my old G5's and hated them. :shocked: I think the Rifles or their Project X are good shafts from what zaphod has said. I'm not a True Temper fan anymore after hitting the Nippon's.... :)

S*berianDVM said: Quote: Originally Posted by warbirdlover I don't think he can use those shafts from the Maxfli's if they are that (tipped to 3X) stiff. :wow: :) No, but he can use the heads from the Maxfli's without buying new Snakeyes at $30 a head. :)

DrBr*wn said: Quote: Originally Posted by SiberianDVM No, but he can use the heads from the Maxfli's without buying new Snakeyes at $30 a head. :) $19.95 per head actually but who's counting? :P I have never heard of Nippon so I will have to do some digging on them. I almost need to play dumb and go to a golf shop and hit some different shafted 7 irons and see the ball flight and feel the control but most shops just have junk thats sitting on the shelf unless they are a demo fitter/tester. I need professional help lol.

R*ckinMA said: the best thing you can do would be to go for a professional fitting - from a real fitter and not just some kid at a big box golf store or a pro who focuses on lessons if your swing is smooth and your driver swingspeed is ~102, you might be a candiate for reg flex shafts. any idea if you release your wrists 1) early 2) mid or 3) late? You will only benefit from a stiff tipped shaft like the DG if you have a late release - otherwise, they'll just feel harsh the stiff tip section keeps the ball down a little bit for those with a late release. If you have a mid release, you'll likely get better results with a softer tip (something like a Dynalite Golf for example) what do you have in your woods for shafts? have you tried other shafts?

DrBr*wn said: I dont use a lot of wrist. I use more arm and shoulder rotation and set my wrists at the top and release about mid way down. I dont lag nearly as much as the long hitters like Sergio or Charles Howell. My wrists are starting release about when my hands are around the rib area but I dont cast the club. My driver is a newer blue YS-6+ on a Titleist 905T 9.5*. My 3-wood gives me perfect ball flight but lots of hooking and its an MFS KJ Choi Orange Krush shaft, supposively between R and S. I hit the driver perfect, the Nickent 3W sucks. HOOK MACHINE!

R*ckinMA said: based on what you've said, I would not use dynamic gold S300s I'd recommend you try something from the FST line - the prices are great the FST Pro 115 has a softer butt and a little stiffer tip, but not crazy - might work well with your swing. You could also try the FST 115s - they'll hit the ball a little higher and I believe feel a little stiffer in the butt If you're ordering from golfsmith, Dynalite golds might be worth a look It's a good idea to get your swingspeed measured with a 5 iron. If you've got a smooth transition, a smooth tempo, and a mid wristcock release, I'd guess you should be at the higher end of a recommended swingspeed range and find something with a mid or soft tip (mid or low kick/bendpoint) for example, if they say 80-90 for Reg flex and 85-95 for stiff, even if you're at 89mph, you're likely better off with Reg flex because of your tranition move and tempo - if you had an aggressive transition or fast tempo and the same swingspeed, I'd say try the Stiff you might want to look into True Length Technology too good luck